If you’re a beginner, a 45 degree angle is good, and for more experienced weavers, around 25 – 30 degrees is fine.
When you take your weft picks through, you want to ensure that you angle it before beating. If you need to see the figure 8 method of loading your stick shuttle, you can watch here: This, in turn, means a smoother weave and no sudden catching or pulling in of the edge threads due to yarn getting stuck on the shuttle. I like to use a figure 8 to wind my shuttle yarn, as it creates a flow, meaning the yarn feeds off the shuttle without snagging or pulling unnecessarily. The way in which you wind yarn onto your stick shuttle will affect your edges. If you have ongoing warp tension issues and find that frustrating, I highly recommend a beginner’s class like my Woe to Go – Beginner Rigid Heddle Weaving. And, once again, a sure recipe for whacky edges. What you finish up with when you start warping is a loose middle and too tight edges. Perhaps you have warped independently, you’ve grabbed the warp with one hand to roll it on, but you haven’t paid enough attention to the middle part of the warp. Inconsistent warp tension usually occurs in the warping process. I feel that this is even worse than the previous two, because at least they can be remedied easily by adjusting warp tension. In between “too tight” and “too loose” tension is “inconsistent tension”. I can always tell a “too tight” warp because the weft at the edges looks unsettled and unhappy. It sounds like a good thing to have your weaving smile, but trust me, it ain’t smiling because it’s happy! It will be hard to beat, so your fell line could end up uneven. This will also cause the dreaded “smile” from your weaving. They may start to curl upwards as you weave the weft and the warp tries to deal with all that tension. When your tension is too tight, you will also get problems at the edges. Not good for your loom either, which is only designed to hold a certain amount of tension before damage can occur. Not good for your poor old warp which my repay you by snapping a thread. Then there is the opposite problem, your tension is too tight.Īn easy way to know if this is your problem is that you have to wrestle with the heddle to get it into the up position. So, if your edges seem too loose, try advancing your warp a little. In the up position, it may fall, in the down position it may just hang there. One way to know if your warp is way too loose, is your heddle won’t like to stay in position when you place it there. I’m going to talk about consistency more in a moment. But, it should not be an excessive amount and it should be consistent. That is normal and natural as the weft takes it’s path back and forth across the warp. When your weft travels around the edge warp threads, it naturally wants to draw in that warp thread a little as it travels to the other side. A too loose tension will result in too loose edges, and even if you employ the techniques I discuss in the video, it’s only going to help a certain amount. If you push up underneath the warp or push down on top and it’s like your hands are on a trampoline that has lost it’s zing, you’re too loose. I do go on about this a bit, but that is only because it is SO CRUCIAL!! If your warp is either too loose or too tight, you are going to meet with trouble when you start weaving. I never did write a blog post to compliment that video, and there are tips and tricks that I want to point out as important, especially for beginner weavers. Because, regardless of my fears and zero expectations, people actually watched the video. And to be really dramatic, I could say that there would be no Online Weaving School without this first video. You could say that this is the video that started it all for me. For more information, please see my disclosure policy.
WEAVEIT RIGID HEDDLE HOW TO
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